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THE PIZZA          
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Neapolitan Tradition
The Global Dish
by Brunella SCHISA

From the Vesuvius to the Nepal: there is who her ago with the black of seppia and who with the roast snake. History, culture and future of the Italian recipe more imitated to the world. What everybody likes it and it beats, among the teenagers, even the hamburger.

There is who prefers it with sweet gorgonzola and pineapple, who with onions, smoked provola, wurstel and speck, who anchors with radish, spicy root and tocchetti of roasted snake. Once mixed the flour brush with the I leaven, in the name of the pizza, it can be committed any infamy.
But if the gasket and the tastes change according to the latitudes and of the continents, the business grows with any currency. It is not a novelty. Already in the fifties the pizzas as the titles of purse, followed the fluctuations of the market. If the Roman with the anchovies went down of price, she wanted to say that the fishing had been abundant. If the balance of the oil and rosemary increased, it meant that the crop of the olives had not been generous. In these last decades the Neapolitan pizza, invented in 1733 from the cook Vincenzo Corrado that for first it dared bake the tomato sbollentato, it has crossed mountainous chains, oceans, deserts reaching the lost valley of the Kaly Gandaly, in Nepal, to over 3.500 meters, where on the roof of a hut of mud, swept by the icy wind, a totters it teaches writing to hand with an only word: " PIZZA ". Impossible to know if the pizzaiolo was born under the Vesuvius, but it is highly probable.

"Removed by his environment it seems a stonatura and it represents an indigestion", he wrote at the end of the 800 the vestal of the soul partenopea Matilde Serao, by the way of a Neapolitan pizzaiolo that moved to the capital to try fortune. And instead the abdomen in Naples has produced thousand of artisans and fantasisti of the Margherita that are rooted all over the world, and it has done fortune.
He knows something Totonno with his pizzeria to Coney Island that it opens when it seems him so much it has the line of vip in attended; or Savior that has created in the skyscraper Met Life of Park Avenue a Naples futuribile, with three furnaces that he has called: Vesuvius, Etna and as Stromboli not to deny his roots.

According to the daily paper " Usa " " Today " to the 25mila McDonald'ses disseminated to the four angles of the planet an equivalent number of pizzerie is contrasted. But there is more. According to a survey conducted by the newspaper among dodicimila American boys in an inclusive band between the 6 and the 14 years, results that in 23 percent it puts the pizza to the first place of the alimentary preferences, the 12 percent the spaghetti, the 8 the fried chicken, 7 the beefsteak. And the hamburger? Only the 6 percent. In short the pizza is so rooted in the tastes of the Americans that many turned on chauvinists are convinced that lines of a stars dish and strips.

Meanwhile in the temple of the cheeseburger you/they are racing to the shelters. The McDonald's of Aosta has started an experiment of marketing, close to Coke it Strains, chips and Happy Meal, have inserted in the menů my " Pizza ". "If the experiment will work" a spokesman of McDonald's Italia tells us" the dish could enter other 243 Italian restaurants of the chain."

"The world success of the pizza depends on two factors", Anthony Conte comments, president of the Italian academy of the Pizza. "On one side the value nutrizionale of the dish, recognized also from the Italian academy of the kitchen that the pizza considers complete food and therefore an unique dish, from the tall one the price, still unbeatable in comparison to any other food". we also Say, the pizza has sfamato the hungry generations of the postwar period. To Naples, a pizzella was not for example, denied to anybody. Some made credit up to the day of the Lottery, in the hope that who in the district it hit attends him both it paid the pizza to everybody. Who didn't trust the bandaged goddess he adopted the formula "Today to eight": I eat today that is I pay among a week.

Other times. Disappeared the itinerant ones and also the perturbing street pizzaioles as Sophia Loren, frozen pizzas have appeared, you shear cooked in electric ovens and pizzas directly delivered to house. All it takes is not only giving a glance to the Italian figures to understand that the gold in Naples is really in that I mix of flour, water and yeast of beer that it has crossed frontiers and cultures. Few cares if in Japan it is garnished with potatoes and mayonnaise and the tomato it is happily replaced with the black of seppia: the euphoria around the pizza is justified entirely.

In our Country, according to the Fipe, the Federation Italian public exercises, consume around three million a year and the turn of business of the ventimilas censussed pizzerie it wanders around 4.300 million. The figure excludes the 27 percent of our fellow townspersons that prefers to consume it among the domestic boundaries instead. In short Margherita and Marinara don't fear the decrease that according to the Istat in the budget of the Italian families it has involved bread and pasta. Rather they go to controtendenza.

If Italy and Naples laugh Europe it doesn't cry. In France the market of the delivery of home pizzas grows to a rhythm of the 19 percent a year. Only in 1998 you are been delivered in the houses of French over winds million of pieces. In Spain as soon as the chain Telepizza has announced that it intended to launch him in the distribution street Internet, it has seen the title squirt to the 15 percent in more.

But the most prestigious testimonial if some years ago Pizza Hut has awarded him, the American colossal, putting in field Michail Gorbaciov. An instructive example of Slavic autoironia in a winning equation between pizza and liberty. As it is? The father of the perestrojka enters a pizzeria in Moscow together with its little niece Anastasia and sits to a table. The customers recognize it and they begin to insult it. "And him what has destroyed our Country", a customer shows it, "Here is the responsible of our troubles", him ago echo another. Until a big man it gets up and it howls: "Ended it! If it were for him now we would not be free to eat this pizza"!. political grudges loosen together with the tomato and the mozzarella.

Brunella Schisa   

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